In some ways, making liquid hydrogen was easy with the new materials. In other ways, its a real pain in the tail. Even with the new super-coolant, it is very hard to make liquid hydrogen. However, I did succeed!
Alright, so.. here"s what I found:Ceramic pipes, steel aquatuners, and steel radiator pipes work perfectly fine. So long as the liquid hydrogen room is also vacuum isolated.Liquid Reserviors are necessary. Using a pool of super-coolant won"t work because the pump itself will create too much heat.The hydrogen must be pre-cooled somewhat close to its condensation point as a SEPARATE process. -200c works pretty well. -250c works even better.Once you get your coolant to temperature, its pretty efficient, but the trick is getting it to temperature.The aquatuner cools by 14c. This is a problem. -255c is NOT cold enough for hydrogen to condense, but if the coolant is any colder when it goes through the aquatuner, it will break pipes and cause lots of problems. So it is nessary to use the under 1kg trick to bring the coolant down the last few degrees.-256c is cold enough -- barely. It will be slow. Especially if your hydrogen isn"t already close to the condensation point. With your coolant at -258c you can make liquid hydrogen at 500g/s (one fan). You could probably do it faster, but I had way too much difficulty with broken pipes. -258.8c was about as cold as I could get my coolant.Getting your coolant cold enough produces a LOT of heat. Once things stabilize, however, it isn"t too bad. If you want to use steel, make sure your aquatuners stay below 300c. Boiling water and running it through a steam generator works great. You can then pump your steam into a rocket engine. Once you are cold enough to condense hydrogen, however, your aquatuners won"t be running enough to boil water anymore.
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Here"s are some spoiler shots of my test build. I call it the Steam Powered Lh2 Automation Technology (SPLAT):
Turn 28! Yay! .. Ok, so I used Sandbox mode. Whatever. You can build it in survival easy peasy -- once you get super coolant.
I used thermal sensors in the hydrogen rooms to turn on/off shutoff valves. Getting the coolant to temperature is MUCH faster when you"re not already circulating it, so keep the radiators turned off until you"re reasonably close to -250c.
It powers itself, really. Used a 3-door pump to push steam back around and chlorine-isolated pools of 300c super-coolant to "trick" the generators into always running. At its hottest, the coolant around the aquatuners was about 278c.
The left liquid pipe thermo sensor is set to "above -258c." The right is set to "above -255c." The left side needed some extra management to work, but at -255c you won"t break pipes at all.
This is.. a mess. Sorry. Let me explain. Once the coolant reaches -255c, you MUST reduce the flow through the aquatuner to 999g/s. It is also EXTREMELY important that the super cold super-coolant must never stop moving.
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So, bridge mechanics were used to make certain that the output from the aquatuner had priority. Bridge mechanics were also used in conjunction with the valve to prevent alternating flows The output from the tank goes through a valve set at 6000g/s. It could probably be set at 9000g/s with no problems, but you want to make sure that you never have more than 10kg/s going into your storage tank. If you do, you can get broken pipes. You"re working with a coolant that is sometimes below its freezing point.